#1 – Cat Mint

One of the best blue perennials I have found is Cat Mint.  This perennial has it all.  Great foliage color and texture, relatively low growing and spreading.  Beautiful little blue perennial flowers that the butterflies love and a great scent when the leaves are crushed.  This little gem will do well on borders or in areas where you need something to take up some space but not get too crazy. 

Buy Catmint Here

Its hardiness is outstanding as well.  I pulled some of mine out at the end of last year because I needed to do a little clean up and this year it is right back at reclaiming its rightful place in the middle of my perennial experiment. 

#2 – Angel’s Trumpet

Angel Trumpet, Red

The next plant I would like to introduce is a great performer.  The Angel’s Trumpet is just an outstanding shrub perennial to have in your garden.  This tropical plant is a large shrub or small tree in the Columbian and Ecuadorian Andes where it grows and around 10,000 feet.  It is part of the same family as the tomato and potato but unlike them all parts are poisonous.  The blooms are breathtaking as they form a trumpet like flower that hangs down from the plant.

Angel Trumpet, Red

The Angel’s Trumpets were once botanically combined with the Daturas, which includes our native Jimson weed. Botanists seem to have finally agreed that they belong in separate genera. Datura has erect flowers that usually last only one day and a seed pod covered in stout thorns. Brugmansia has a smooth seed pod when one forms.

These plants are incredible and full of mystery and lore. There is some history of usage in shaman and witchcraft rituals and recipes. Here is a great book that details the plants and their history

It takes some time for it to come to life in the South but once it starts to grow you can practically see it getting larger by the day.  As it starts to mature and gain some height it soon starts to add its flare to your garden and becomes one of the centerpieces of the season.   

#3 – Bee Balm

Red is a must have in the garden but in the perennial world it is sometimes an elusive color.  Bee Balm is one of the best red southern perennials available.  It will do well in sun or shade has a great sturdy flower stem that launches its dazzling red high into the summer flower sphere and will grow from fast creeping runners.  The spread will reach 2 – 4 feet and a 2 – 3 foot height so division every 2 – 3 years is possible. These tight heads of tubular, red flowers are also surrounded by a whorl of colored leafy bracts.  The leaves in fact are what give Earl Gray tea its aroma and flavor.  This one is another “must have” in the Southern Gardeners garden. 

Over the past few years I have created several Japanese gardens.  I love the Asian garden design with its simplicity and ancient rituals of lanterns and fountains.  The first Japanese garden I created was in my own back yard.  I decided to create a Japanese garden in an area of my back yard that was heavy shade and a very out of the way area of the yard.   I have found that a Japanese style garden can be an excellent solution for those areas that are difficult to come up with a landscaping solution.  Especially those areas with heavy shade and lots of moss.  So many customers ask me what they should do with this type of area and when I suggest this would be a great spot to create a Japanese garden they are very intrigued.

Recently I did some upgrades to my Japanese garden.  Last year we had a flood in Atlanta that swept away a part of the Japanese garden landscape in my backyard so this spring I decided it was a good time to do some improvements from the original design.  Here is a picture of the area of the backyard before I created the Japanese Garden.

I spent a lot of time planning the layout of the Asian style garden.  One of the best resources I found was this book.

One of the elements I wanted to incorporate into my garden was a dry (karesanui) style element.  This would add elements of stones and gravel symbolizing water and islands.   As I researched the symbolism of the elements in this style of garden I realized how important it was to plan the placement and size of the elements I would use to create a Japanese garden.

Other elements in the garden would be a Japanese lantern, sitting rock and a landscape pathway in and out of the garden.  I utilized some borders I found at Home Depot and added some plant material to finish off the garden.  Low voltage landscape lighting was added to accent the garden at night, complete with a little light running to the lantern.

Here is the Japanese Garden after the first construction.

The dry garden is at the low right side of the picture with the path leading into and out of the garden.

You can see a small fountain in the middle of the picture and the Japanese lantern is located to the right. It’s a little hidden behind the privet but you can see the red lantern base.  I actually found the Japanese lantern in the woods of a friend’s house and was lucky enough to have him give it to me.  If you are not as lucky you can find great Japanese lanterns here.

Japanese Lantern

The flood actually washed most of the dry Japanese garden and pathway out.  Most of those upright granite stones and actually the bridge were washed into the drainage ditch that runs through our backyard.  The drainage ditch is what the bridge spans.

As you can see the little fence behind the Japanese garden is pieced together and not doing well so this spring another phase of the reconstruct was to replace the fence line that runs the entire distance of our backyard.  There were actual sections that had just fallen over as you moved to the left of the section you see in this picture.  One of the elements that I have thought about for some time now that I would like to add to the Asian style garden is a bamboo fence.  In fact I priced one out a few years ago, it was not cheap.  But in deciding that this was the year to replace the fence and I was in need of repairing the flood damage to the Japanese garden, it was time to put on the thinking cap and come up with a plan.

What I ended up doing is rebuilding the fence to match what was originally there but stopping right before the Japanese garden and completing the fence line with a bamboo fence.

Again I went back to my trusty Japanese Garden book.  Again, I am telling you, if you are serious about having a Japanese style garden, you need this book.  It is invaluable.

There is a section in the back of the book that shows you how to tie the knots and build the fence.   I came up with a bit of my own design but still tried to keep it as authentic as possible.  After much research in trying to locate bamboo poles I ended up asking a local homeowner if he would let me cut some for my needs.  He was gracious enough to offer his bamboo as a gift.  Its amazing what you can get if you just ask.

Another fantastic resource is this ebook.  This will actually allow you to get started immediately since you just download the book and start planning right now.  The information that has been compiled in this manual is priceless and will give you everything you need to create your meditative masterpiece.

Do It Yourself Japanese Garden

This book will:

• Gives YOU the 5 essential types of Japanese Gardens, and how to choose the right one for you!
• Show’s you how to transform your backyard in a matter of hours.
• Reveals the TRUTH about Japanese Rock Garden principles and the Deep Symbolic meaning behind them!
• Demonstrates easy, step by step sample garden designs for you to follow.
• Helps you choose the right plants, before you begin!
• Assists you to not make the biggest mistake most people make when designing their own Japanese Garden.
• How to successfully bring together all of the essential elements to make the Japanese Garden you have always dreamed of.

Do It Yourself Japanese Garden

The last upgrade I wanted to do was to have a more traditional water feature incorporated into the Japanese garden.  I created a bamboo water pipe fountain out of some of the extra bamboo I had.  It was so easy to make and adds so much to the garden I highly recommend building one of these.  The details are in the books but I will be posting my own instructional soon so sign up for our RSS Feed and stay tuned.

Here are a few pictures of the finished upgrades.

Bamboo fountain falling into stone.

In this picture you can see the little terra cotta soldier with the Buddha sitting in meditation.    You can also see the borders have changed.  I used the cheap landscape timbers you can get at Lowe’s or Home Depot.  I think they are close to $2.00 / each at 8’ long.  I cut them  into sections and set them in the ground as you can see in the picture.  This makes a great border and very inexpensive to do.

If you have any questions please leave a comment, I will be happy to answer any questions you might have.  This is a great project and certainly gives you an incredible look to any garden.

What is Clay Soil?

Clay soil is defined as soil that is composed of mostly clay particles. Soil that consists of over 50% clay particles is referred to as “heavy clay.” To determine whether you have clay soil or not, you can do a simple soil test. Most likely, you probably already know if you have clay soil. If your soil sticks to shoes and garden tools like glue, forms big clods that aren’t easy to separate, and crusts over and cracks in dry weather, you have clay.

Positives of Clay Soil

Even clay soil has some good qualities. Clay, because of its density, retains moisture well. It also tends to be more nutrient-rich than other soil types. The reason for this is that the particles that make up clay soil are negatively charged. They attract and pick up positively charged particles, such as calcium, potassium, and magnesium.

Negatives of Clay Soil

In addition to the drawbacks mentioned above, clay also has the following negative qualities:

• Slow draining
• Slow to warm in the spring
• Compacts easily, making it difficult for plant roots to grow
• Tendency to heave in winter
• Tendency to be alkaline

Improving Clay Soil

Improving your clay soil will take a bit of work, but the good news is that the work you do will instantly improve the structure of your soil and make it easier to work with. Most of the work is done up front, with some annual chores to continue improving your soil.

It is best to improve an entire planting area all at once. I often see advice about just improving individual planting holes as you go along, but I don’t recommend this practice. When you dig a planting hole in clay soil, then plop in a plant and nicely amend only the soil you use to backfill, your plant will be happy for a little while. But what you’ve essentially done is make the planting-hole equivalent of a flower pot. Eventually, the plant will start sending out roots, but when they reach the limits of the nicely amended soil you backfilled with, they will have a hard time expanding into the hard clay around them, and will start circling around in the planting hole instead. You’ll end up with a perfectly root bound plant, and it won’t grow as large or as healthy as it should.

Decide how much area you want for your new garden. If you are improving an existing bed, you’ll just have to dig out any plants you want to keep, and then you can get started. If you are preparing a brand new bed, there are a few more steps to consider

To improve your soil, you’ll need to add six to eight inches of organic matter to the entire bed. You can add any organic matter you can get your hands on. Grass clippings (as long as they haven’t been treated with chemicals), shredded leaves, rotted manure, and compost are all perfect choices. Spread your organic matter on top of the soil. Here’s where the manual labor comes in. The organic matter needs to be mixed into the top six to twelve inches of soil. Digging it in and mixing it with a shovel is a great way to do this, as it moves a lot of earth without pulverizing the soil particles the way tilling can. However, if digging is just too hard on your back, using a tiller is a fine method.

When you’re finished, your garden bed will be several inches higher than it was originally. It will settle some over the course of a season, but the soil structure will keep improving as microorganisms in the soil work to break down all of the organic matter you’ve added. The bed can be planted immediately, however. You’ll be adding more organic matter on the top of the bed once or twice a year. This will continue the process of improving the soil’s structure and offset any settling that happens.

Testing for Fertility and Adding Fertilizers

After a season or so, it’s a good idea to collect a soil sample and have it tested to see if you have any nutrient deficiencies or pH issues. The report you get back will offer suggestions for how to improve the garden further. Add any organic fertilizers or soil amendments outlined in your report, and your bed will be perfect for growing healthy plants.

It’s a bit of work. But you can be secure in the knowledge that you won’t have to waste time struggling with clay soil again.

#1 -  Lettuce does not take a lot of space to grow.

One of the great things about growing lettuce is that it won’t take up a lot of space in your home garden so it is perfect for small plots.  Your rows should be at least 10 inches wide with 20 inches between the rows. 

It is important to to thin out the lettuce as it grows.  Most types of lettuce need between 8 and 14 inches between the plants.  For instance Butterleaf and Romaine need about eight inches where Crisp lettuce needs between 12 – 14 inches.

#2 – You can grow lettuce from seed or transplant.

Most varieties of lettuce can be planted directly in the ground from seed.  However leaf lettuce is a bit easier to grow from seed then head lettuce.  The better way to grow the head lettuce would be from transplants since growing from seed during the spring has a high rate of failure. 

To plant lettuce from seeds you will place them shallow in the soil.  Cover the seeds with about 1/2 inch of soil and give them a good watering.  

#3 -  There are a wide variety and types of lettuces to grow.

Another great thing about growing lettuce is the many varieties and types there are to grow.  There are also variations in colors to give your garden an attractive look as your harvest is maturing.  Have fun with the textures, colors and varieties and mix them together for an outstanding looking garden and salad.

#4 – It is possible to get two crops – depending on your region.

It is possible to get two crops of lettuce.  The fall crop needs to be started about 3 months before the first fall freeze.  Lettuce needs a good amount of water so if you are planting in warm, early fall temperatures make sure to maintain a good watering schedule. 

If you are in a climate that would allow for an early spring crop, you can plant your seeds or transplants as early as January.  In colder areas, you will need to make sure you are past the last heavy freeze, usually sometime after March.  The young, tender lettuce plants are sensitive to freezing, but can handle a light freeze. 

#5 -  Growing lettuce keeps your garden producing – even in the colder months

The ability to keep your garden producing during the colder months is a rewarding experience and one that keeps some food coming to the table throughout the year.  Have fun with this, experiment and hone your gardening skills. 

Yes they are excellent choices as organic fertilizers. 

If you use them, use less or no synthetic (commercial) fertilizers. Since coffee grounds lack phosphorus (the key ingredient in fertilizers for flowering plants) it is better on non-flowering shrubs, foliage plants and grass than flowers.

However, if used in combination with phosphorus (e.g. super phosphate or rock phosphate) it is excellent — and cheap. You can buy super phosphate and rock phosphate at garden centers and home improvement centers.

It is not  "slow release" as typical of most organic fertilizers. Most of the nitrogen will be available pretty fast. This means you have to watch out not applying too high quantities at one time, and that more then one application during the growing season may be needed but in smaller volumes at a time

One of the best ways of bringing some of the garden to the kitchen and some of the kitchen to the garden is by growing herbs. You don’t even have to have a garden to do it. In fact, part of the fun of growing herbs is to grow them in flower pots. With a harvest of herbs within reach of the kitchen, whether its just outside the kitchen door or in the window sill, culinary inspiration comes naturally.

Many herbs thrive in pots and luckily, most of the essential herbs that are a must have for that extra burst of flavor in your favorite dishes. Once you have selected the herbs you want to grow and have them planted in well-drained potting soil, the hard work is over; they need little attention aside from watering and pinching back to encourage lush growth.

Here is a list of some of the essential herbs that are easy to grow in pots.

Basil – This tender annual flourishes in warm weather but needs plenty of moisture. Pinch plants when they are small to encourage branching, and remove flower stalks as they form. You can harvest leaves for salads and seasoning all summer.

Chives – An ornamental onion that grows in a clump of long, thin foliage, The leaves can be snipped with scissors and used in many recipes. Fresh flowers can be tossed into a salad. Hardy in zones 5 – 11.

Lavender – The Mediterranean plant requires quick draining soil. This aromatic herb adds some flare in brownies or chocolate cake. Hardy in zones 5 – 8

Oregano – The small, fragrant leaves and pretty flowers in midsummer make this herb one of my favorites. It flourishes in hot, dry spots. Harvest whole stems, which can be stripped of their leaves in the kitchen. Hardy in zones 4 – 9

Parsley – These plants will tolerate cool weather and can be set out in early spring. Parsley can be grown from seed but takes up to three weeks to germinate. Harvesting encourages new growth.

Sage – This herb has some different looks that can really add a lot to your herbal arrangement. Their are some variegated versions that really have a beautiful look to them. sage does not tolerate wet soil. Hardy in Zones 5 – 8

Thyme - Drought tolerant and spreading. Who could ask for anything more – and an herb to top it off. Wow – what a combination. Clip the stems and strip or pinch leaves off, or bundle a few stems together to use as seasoning in soups. Hardy in zones 4 – 9

These and many other herbs can be successfully raised in pots.  Experiment with different herbs and different combinations within the same pot.  It’s great fun and the benefits taste great. 

Bon Appetit.